why i cant see the object window and prefeience or properties window at the same time?

hi Kristen can you buy level 2 of stitch artist without buying level 1 since level 2 has alot of level 1 in it?

Thank you so much, Kirsten. I sent both the .be and .vip files.

I think after next week I should have more time to concentrate on the lessons

I drew out an rectangle in Stitch Artist 1 and wanted to open one area. I click on one node and then hold shift key to click on second node but not keeping both nodes highlighted. Read in manual where you can click one node and cause a break. So click on one node and left click to get menu ..I don't have "Break at point" as a choice. Menu has Curved-Cusp-LIne- Symmetic-Copy. Manual says there should be Break at point and Reveal in Object View. I have the 1.164 download

Hey so I'm making a design with rly tiny eyes, those star's are like an inch by an inch. When I actually go through with the embroidery, it makes really big knots on the other side of the shirt, like on the stabilizer side. Because the eyes are so tiny i did manually placed stitches, I showed how i did the stitches in the second screenshot.

How should I go about this better? Less Density, is there a type of fill i should learn how to do with manual place stitching that works well in situations like this? If so, what is it.

Hello, Kirsten. I am working through the instructional emails for Stitch Artist. The last 2 videos on Day 3 won’t open. When YouTube opens after I click the icon, the message is that the videos are private. Any suggestions? Thank you

Hello to all,

I have stitch Artist level 1, and I would like to split a design. I have a heart shape applique, which I would like to split in half and add some lettering. I am adding two points on the line, select the points, and then choose 'break at points' but nothing happens!!! What am I doing wrong? Is it possible to split designs in level 1? Thank you in advance

I need a clean and readable 1/4 inch BX font. Can anyone make suggestions? It is for a polo.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask, but here goes.
I digitized some of my grandkids artwork and this particular project has given me a problem in the final stitch out. The test stitch out came out perfect, but when I stitched it out on the actual project the fill stitch pulled the project out of line on both the face and the background. My stitch settings didn’t change from the test to actual project. I realize I don't really understand what all the setting are, and that they have defaults so I tried not to adjust anything if I didn't understand it's particular job in the system.
The project fabric is duck cloth and I used polymesh cutaway stabilizer, the only cutaway I have on hand. The test is a mid weight muslin and I used medium tear away stabilizer for it.
I know there can be a difference between the fabrics that can play a role in the stitch out, so I am asking if just changing the stabilizer will make it stitch out right or should I do something to affect the pull compensation with the heavier fabric such as the duck cloth.

I looked at the project advisor and it said that duck cloth doesn't require a lot of stabilizer because it is a fairly stable fabric, so I thought I would be okay with the no-show polymesh.

I have had suggestions to double the polymesh and lay them perpendicular to account for stretch(?) and to add a layer of mid weight tear away. Another suggestion was that the direction of the stitching would cause it to pull. I adjusted the slant and the stitching went from stitching toward the middle with a straight line to stitching from the bottom right corner to the upper left corner. Someone suggested that this would make it want to pull and leave a gap in the lower left corner.

The adjustments I did make in the fill properties was the density of the pattern to a 4.5pt. The pattern is set on wicker, length is 4.5mm, edge path is .4mm and reverse is set to Pattern. I didn't change anything in the pull compensation panel. On the underlay I changed the density to 40 and the inset to 9, contour and perpendicular are checked. Maybe this is where I messed up. I felt like the underlay was way to close and building a very thick base for the fill stitch. I had another piece of artwork digitized by a digitizer and her underlay was about the same density as the 40 pt, so I thought I would try and match it. It seemed to work well with the muslin and the tear away stabilizer. So I wonder if using heavier or a thicker layer of stabilizer would make a difference, or did I make wrong adjustments to the setting?
I am attaching a photo of both the test and the project. And a screenshot of the actual full project The rest is stitching out just fine. Just an issue with he bear. Any suggestions before I attempt another stitch out would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Nancy Petersen

Hi Everyone! I've had a few people ask how they can save the Let's Learn Together emails for future reference. I've just made an FAQ teaching how to do it in Windows. I hope it helps someone.

https://www.embroidery.com/help.ec?docID=3368&efid...

from:
https://www.intowindows.com/how-to-save-emails-as-...
with modifications and original images.

How To Save Emails As PDFs In Windows 10

Last Updated on August 22, 2017

Windows 10 Mail, Outlook 2016/2013, Windows Live Mail, and Mozilla Thunderbird are some of the very popular email clients out there for Windows 10.

Many PC users often want to save important emails onto their PCs to keep a backup of emails with crucial information. While programs like Outlook 2016 offers options to save emails as PDFs from within its interface, most of the email clients don't come with an option to save emails as PDFs, but there is still a way to do it!

If you are on Windows 10 and using Windows 10 Mail, Outlook, Thunderbird, Windows Live Mail or any other email client or app, including web-based email services like Hotmail or Gmail, you can use the built-in Print to PDF feature to save emails as PDFs in Windows 10 without having to install additional software or plugins.

Complete the given below directions to save emails as PDFs in Windows 10. The pictures shown here are using Gmail in Mozilla Firefox as an example.

Save emails as PDFs in Windows 10

NOTE: I have used Gmail opened inMozilla Firefox in this guide. However, you can use the same procedure to save emails as PDFs in Windows 10 from any program such as Outlook 2016/2013, Mozilla Thunderbird, Windows Live Mail, or any app.

Step 1: Start your email client. Open the email message that you want to save as PDF. I am saving Let's Learn Essentials: Lesson 2.

Step 2: Simultaneously press Ctrl and P keys to open the Print dialog. If your email client is a desktop program, you will see a classic Print dialog or program’s own print dialog but there will an option to choose your printer.

Step 3: In the Printer section, the first box shows you where the computer is going to print to. You can click the little arrow to the right of that to change the print location. Microsoft Print to PDF should be an option. Select Microsoft Print to PDF. Click the Print button.

Step 4: Clicking the Print button will open Save Print Output As dialog. Enter a name for the email that you are saving as PDF, select a location to save the PDF (your documents folder, or your desktop, or wherever you want to keep this email), and then click the Save button to save your email as PDF. Simple as that!

Above, you can see that I am saving this in my Downloads folder, and I am naming it "Essentials Lesson 2." As said, you can use this procedure to save emails as PDFs in Windows 10 from any email client.

Tip: If you are using Windows 10 Mail app, you can backup or save email messages on your PC (without converting them to PDF).